Offal occupies a central place in my kitchen–but many Americans would never even try it, let alone attempt to cook with it themselves. In this article, I explore how offal used to be an integral part of the Western diet, and why it has suffered a fall from grace in modern times.
When archaeologists excavated Sardis, the ancient capital of Lydia, in the 1950s, they unearthed some disturbing evidence: “table settings” from ritual meals, including plates, cups, pitchers, stew pots, iron knives…and the bones of puppies. The remains forced them to consider an uncomfortable question: Might the meat originally used in the dish have been that of puppies, slaughtered for a ritual meal?
Souvlaki is a traditional dish that is almost synonymous with Greece itself, yet it may have emerged from a much older, Lydian delicacy. Read on to find out why your favorite skewered food’s predecessor carried cultural stakes that go beyond what you might have imagined–and how you can cook a version that recovers what it may have been like to dine on the original.
Bone marrow is a buttery, decadently rich substance that is utter bliss on a piece of crostini with a dash of sea salt. Indeed, Anthony Bourdain once declared that if he had to have one last meal on earth, it would be exactly this dish.
A meal, like sex, is an exercise in which desires are aroused and fulfilled. In this post, I give a recipe for a meat pie that may be better than sex: rich pork belly that melts on the tongue; the savory, slightly wild flavor of beef kidney; and succulent mushrooms with their meaty mouth-feel–all wrapped in a hot, flaky crust.
This blog celebrates all the strange and wondrous foods that our world has to offer—especially those products that have become forgotten or despised. Part and parcel of this is encouraging respect for the whole plant or animal and minimizing waste—the bones, tongue, and liver of the cow are just as desirable as the loin, the beets greens as savory as the beets themselves…